The 2010 Nuits St. Georges Les Bousselots bursts from the glass with the blackest of cherries, plums, menthol and spices. It shows tremendous depth and richness in a plush, totally inviting style that nearly buries the tannins. Today it is immensely appealing, but I have a hard time thinking it won't shut down in bottle given the sheer structure of the material. These vines are over 50 years old. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2030.

This red leans toward the tart side of the balance sheet, displaying currant, pomegranate, licorice and spice flavors. Dense and firm, righting itself a little by the finish. Best from 2015 through 2023.