Boundary Breaks No. 239 Riesling 2017
|Region||United States, New York, Finger Lakes|
The 2017 Dry Riesling No. 239, made by Kelby Russell at Red Newt, comes in with eight grams of residual sugar, 7.3 of acidity and 12.3% alcohol. The winery says that the goal here is to harvest at an "unusually high degree of ripeness and then ferment the wine dry," like a German Spätlese Trocken. Clean and transparent, this is pretty gorgeous. The first claim to fame is that ripeness-it seems surprisingly rich and fruity. It then adds a hint of sugar on the end. I was thinking: "Whaaaat? Isn't this the Dry Riesling?" The hammer then comes down and the acidity takes this wine over. It balances the fruit and eviscerates the sugar. As it airs and warms, this becomes simply gripping, typically seeming like a big-time wine with a small-time price. A super bargain, this looks like the best I've seen in the brand so far (and perhaps the best table wine I've seen from Boundary Breaks). It likely will age well too, although it does have that to prove in the cellar. There were 2,500 cases produced.
A bright, effusive nose of pulverized limestone, freshly zested lime and white flowers offers a powerful start to this wine. The dry medium-bodied palate brings a complex mix of earthy, spicy and fruit elements, with flavors of crunchy yellow apple, lime, fresh ginger and tangy wet stone pushing through. A textured and tangy white-plum-skin note lingers on the finish.