Weingut Glatzer Dornevogel Grüner Veltliner 2016
It means "thorn-bird," named after the avian marauders who eat the ripest grapes, because they are smart and hungry birds. It signifies the top reserve wine in its category. Usually there's a big jump from the basic wine to this, but in '15 the basic wine's so good that the two differ more in style of flavor than in concentration or density. It starts with this being 80% sponti (spontaneous fermentation), which adds to the typical aroma of Tuscan extra-virgin olive oil. The palate is markedly salty, like eating Wellfleets with bread dunked in just-pressed new oil. More red pepper here, more intensity, but curiously less dicht. It's different, it has "reserve" flavors, it will age longer.