Nikolaihof Federspiel Im Weingebirge Gruner Veltliner 2010
Wine AdvocateThe Nikolaihof 2010 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Im Weingebirge makes for a slightly paradoxical comparison with this year-s Hefeabzug bottling, inasmuch as this year the former is higher in alcohol; whereas this Federspiel - while it harbors some darker flavor shadings of bittersweet herbal essences - is even more citric and Riesling-like, mingling lemon, white currant, and crisp pear on an, at once, succulent and almost spiny palate. There is certainly no lack of ripeness, though, and a sense of extract sweetness seems also to factor into the finish as counterweight to suggestions of tartness. What-s more, the measurable acidity is not exceptionally high, but rather only the strength of vivacious, ripe acid impression. Expect at least 6-8 years of delicious utility, and quite possibly more.