Next to the classic Barolo, the Fratelli Alessandria 2016 Barolo San Lorenzo di Verduno shows a slightly darker hue and more mild concentration. The bouquet reveals less outright floral and fruit definition, and it offers more secondary and tertiary aromatic complexity instead, with spice, crushed stone, balsam herb and faint white truffle. The wine is powerful and shows a richer fiber, not by much but just enough to consider a more robust food pairing and more cellar age. A mere 5,000 bottles were released, and this is another home run from this impressive set of new releases from Fratelli Alessandria.

The 2016 Barolo San Lorenzo di Verduno comes from a south-facing plot of more clay and limestone soils and was brought up all in casks. Gorgeous notes of darker fruits, flowers, menthol, and cigar smoke give way to a medium to full-bodied, silky, layered, gorgeously polished wine that has enough tannins to warrant 4-5 years of bottle age. It will keep for 25+ years.

The 2016 Barolo San Lorenzo di Verduno bristles with energy, as all these wines do. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2016 needs time to shed some of its youthful austerity. Sweet tobacco, spice, cedar, earthiness and dried cherry are some of the many notes that open up with some coaxing. Time in the glass bring out a whole range of tar and incense nuances that work so well with the wine's personality. Over the years, I have been fortunate to taste the Alessandria Barolos with quite a bit of bottle age. I don't want to scare readers off, but the 2016 is likely to be at its best in another decade or so, once the muscular tannins start to soften a bit. My impression is that the wait will be worth it.

Aromas of pressed rose, iris, dark baking spice and ripe dark-skinned berry form the nose. The structured, enveloping palate opens with juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry and licorice before the warmth of alcohol appears on the midpalate. Taut fine-grained tannins give it a firm structure and grip the finish. Drink 2024-2031.