96-98 Barrel sample. A wine that shows intense spice, with ginger and grated nutmeg. This lies over the top of the ripest yellow fruits, added to mango, sweet pears and a fresh, final character. Complex wine with an immense future.

The Coutet 2009 is a sensational effort from Philippe Baly and his team. It has a fragrant nose of honey, vervain tea, pineapple, frangipane and apple-blossom, well defined if needing a little more vigour at the moment. The palate is vibrant on the entry, informed by touches of apricot and orange peel, very focused and tensile towards the long, sensuous, viscous finish. It has the same minerality exuded by Doisy-Daene and reminds me of a stellar '62 tasted just a few weeks previously. A magnificent Coutet.

Very lightly toasty, this is more floral for now, with lively honeysuckle and pineapple notes up front, giving way to richer hints of warm brioche, fig, glazed pear and lemon shortbread that should emerge more with time. The long, lacy finish has the poise and balance for long-term cellaring. Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Best from 2014 through 2034. 5,000 cases made.