The Frescobaldi 2017 Brunello di Montalcino CastelGiocondo is one of those wines that has seen slight tweaks and stylistic changes over the past 10 years, going from an abundant, large-scale generic Tuscan red to a more subdued and authentic interpretation of the cool Montalcino territory. I'd say that the transition has been smooth and not obvious, unless you were especially attentive. Despite the hot-vintage character of this sample, the wine freely dispenses of wild berry, crushed stone and red rose aromas.

A tightly-woven version, the cherry, berry and earth flavors quickly give way to beefy tannins. Leans to the dry, tannic side in the balance, yet has fine length. Best from 2025 through 2040.

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Castelgiocondo presents an intense bouquet of medicinal cherries laced with autumnal spice and hints of camphor. This is juicy, racy even, with brisk acids enlivening the tart red and blue fruits, as grippy tannins slowly mount toward the close. It leaves the palate clenched in youthful poise, as balsam herbs, dark chocolate and hints of plum sauce linger on. This is a full-throttle Brunello that walks the tightrope of balance. That said, there's a lot of pleasure to be found here.