New leather, truffle and camphor aromas mingle with a whiff of wild berries on this earthy red. The ripe, accessible palate doles out fleshy black cherry, crushed raspberry, culinary spice and game alongside taut, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022-2027.

The 2017 Barolo Tortoniano is a supple wine to drink now and over the next handful of years. Succulent dark cherry, chocolate, cloves and leather are all kicked up in this forward, fruity Barolo from Chiarlo. The Tortoniano is the best of the three 2017 Barolos here. It is the least pushed wine, a good thing in this warm and very dry year.