From the lieu-dit of the same name, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape La Guigasse is all undestemmed Grenache matured in demi-muids, possibly as long as 30-36 months, according to Baptiste Grangeon, who looks after the wines for American importer Peter Weygandt. Less perfumed than it is some years, it still positively bursts with raspberries and cherries, hints of cola and peppery spice. It's full-bodied, rich and silky-textured, with a long, plush yet vibrant finish that hints at mint and garrigue. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.

Coming from 75-year-old Grenache vines and brought up in old demi-muids, the 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape La Guigasse offers a complex bouquet of red and black fruits, ground herbs, smoked earth, and licorice. It's a rich, concentrated version of this cuvée that has a big mid-palate, ripe yet present tannins, and a great finish. A great vintage for this cuvée, it's already approachable yet will keep for 15+ years.

Dark crimson. Highly perfumed scents of red and dark berry preserves, exotic spices and potpourri; an incense flourish adds complexity. Stains the palate with juicy Chambord, cherry pie and lavender pastille flavors that deepen steadily with aeration. The seamless, penetrating finish displays outstanding clarity, appealing sweetness and just a whisper of fine-grained tannins.