The 2021 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs is more reserved than the Champans, unwinding to reveal scents of plums, wild berries, vine smoke, spices and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless, with powdery tannins and excellent depth at the core, it's bright and perfumed, concluding with a long, saline finish.

The 2021 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru, whose illustrious pedigree did not preclude it from frost damage, nevertheless has a distinctive nose that seems anomalous to d'Angerville's other crus: darker fruit, much more marine- influenced, to the point where you would imagine there might be stems (it is 100% de- stemmed like the other crus). The palate is very well structured, edgier than the Champans, more saline with modest grip towards the slightly saturnine finish. This will require 3-4 years in bottle. Excellent, somehow a bit... enigmatic.